Manderley...Escabeche

Last night (I dreamt) I went to Escabeche again, this time with the boy in tow, to sample the new, summer menu that they have created.  The restaurant is really doing rather well and is packed every weekend.  The turn out on a Tuesday evening after bank holiday was impressive.  Thankfully the building site next door has gone and a terraced area has been set up with chairs and tables in front of the restaurant for al fresco dining, and possibly even some barbecues later in the year.  They have also completed work on their upstairs area where they have held some live music events and a wine tasting, I hope to sample both of these kinds of events in the near future! 
We drank a crisp and fruity white rioja from the impressive wine list and our venerable host, Jon Perkins, ordered a rather decadent number of dishes for us to sample.  A selection of breads came first, cheese focaccia with garlic butter and fresh, warm pitta with home made hummus, sunblush tomato pesto and a rustic tapenade.  All the dips positively zinged with flavour and freshness.  at under £3 each the breads are a cheap and filling starter.  Next came a courgette, basil and Parmesan gratin which had been fiercely recommended by front of house protege Kat, athough she claims that she dislikes courgettes!  This pleasingly understated dish tasted of pure summer, and was one of my favourites.  We had a board of cured meats with cornichons and what was described on the menu as seasonal slaw but was actually a delectable celeriac remoulade, a bonus indeed.  We also sampled marinated halloumi fritters with a harissa dip, a tuna and Tuscan bean salad, fish and chorizo croquettes with ravigote dressing (tomatoes, capers etc) which were the right side of crunchy on the outside and melting potato inside, with smoky chorizo perfectly complementing the fish.  We moved on to a dense and flavoursome Spanish omelette, light as air tempura squid and the piece de resistance for the boy; crispy skinned pork belly with cauliflower and manchego puree, mustard leeks and a rich jus, a kind of mini roast dinner, bursting with concentrated flavours (and morsels of fabulous crackling).  All the dishes range in price from £2.85 to a maximum of £7.95 for tapas of beef or scallop and smoked salmon.  The average is £5 and the portions are generous for tapas.  Two to three dishes per person are recommended plus bread or potatoes.  Yes, purists, this isn't Spanish tapas, but as I said in my first blog about Escabeche they have taken the concept of tapas and turned it on it's head and the result is some of the most inventive, creative and delicious cooking I've sampled in ages.  We finished our meal with tiny shots of amaretto with warm cream and churros with chocolate sauce that any self respecting churerro would be proud of.  Burp.  There is also an extensive breakfast menu including interesting dishes like Kedgeree and Piperade, fine coffee, lunch offers and an afternoon tapas menu.  Why anyone is still going to cafe nero across the road I don't know.  If you haven't been yet, why?  I'm aware my opening line echoes Daphne du Maurier, and actually no, I didn't dream it, it really was that good!
 http://www.perkins-family.co.uk/?i=214141