Darleys

Here is a review of Darleys that I wrote a couple of months ago and did not publish at the time...

Perched right on the river Derwent in the village of Darley Abbey, Darleys is clearly the place to come for a special occasion meal.  There were all kinds of celebrations taking place during the lively Saturday afternoon we visited, from a 60^th birthday to a demure hen do.

Upon arrival, friendly staff ushered us to the bar for an aperitif.  We sipped a sparkling Chilean white and first impressions of the dated maroon décor were immediately forgotten as we guzzled the complimentary home-made crisps (baked fresh each morning) and unctuous olives we were presented with.

Having chosen from the reasonably priced set lunch menu, we were settled at a table and our starters arrived quickly.  Ham hock, locally sourced and perfectly seasoned, came with satisfyingly stodgy yellow corn bread and an abundant Dijon mustard foam.  Nori wrapped salmon with a ginger and soy dip was enlivened by a decadent strip of crispy salmon skin.

Mains were a classic free range chicken dinner and a richly flavoured daube of slow cooked Derbyshire beef, served with thyme dumplings and a bacon sauce.  The intriguing Romanian Pinot Noir we drank complemented both dishes perfectly.

The faultlessly executed food is sadly let down by the restaurant’s interior design, from which no amount of ostentatious crumb sweeping and wine pouring could fully distract us.  Mosaic mirrors, floral curtains with monstrous pelmets and jewelled light fittings vie for attention.  It’s lucky for Darleys that the food and atmosphere more than make up for the disastrous décor.